Iron Door Installation
Tools needed: Level, drill, screwdriver, chop saw, caulk gun, grinder, file
Supplies needed 3” x ¼” lag bolts, self-drilling #6 x 1/2” screws for attaching the sweep, shims, black or bronze polyurethane caulk, Vaseline or 3-in-One oil.
Door arrival: The door and the jamb will be shipped in a wood crate. The jamb will have a temporary shipping brace at the bottom. DO NOT REMOVE THE SHIPPING BRACE UNTIL DOOR IS COMPLETELY HUNG AND PLUM.
CUSTOMER GLASS OPTION
Glass doors, threshold, weather stripping and sweeps may be shipped separately. Most specialty glass must be ordered in the US and may require additional delivery time. This delay could be eliminated by ordering glass from a local glass supplier.
- Make sure you have a rough opening at least 1 inch wider and 1” taller than the door.
- Make sure the floor is level; the bottom of both jamb legs must be level. A roll of vinyl waterproofing or pan flashing is recommended under the threshold and behind the jamb.
Note: For replacement situations make sure the base is built-up to the interior floor. This can be done using PVC.
- Install the jamb, centering it in the opening level and plumb. Make sure you set it 1/2” or 5/8” into the room making allowance for the interior drywall. Install top and bottom lag bolts in both jamb legs leaving the center until doors are installed and set. Note: Use lag bolts to secure the jamb through the (pre-drilled holes behind q-lon weatherstrip) at the hinge locations .
- Attach the sweep onto the bottom of the door. Silicone caulk bottom of door and attach sweep with self-drilling screws. Cut sweep to length and bore it for the throw bolt on the passive door. Lipped edge goes to the inside.
- Inject vaseline or one shot of 3-in-One oil into the nipples of all hinges. Coat both male and female parts of the hinges.
DO NOT USE HEAVY GREASE – THIS WILL MAKE DOOR DIFFICULT TO OPEN.
- Insert ball bearing provided into the male part of the hinges and with at least two people and the door at 90 degrees set the door into the receiving hinge on the door jamb – male into female.
- Finish installing lag bolts and shim jambs at each hinge leaving an even reveal around the door and down the center where the two doors meet (you may need to shim the top of the door to spread the jamb). Note: Doors need to close flush and even at, top, center and bottom. Adjust jambs accordingly.
- Once doors are properly set, remove temporary shipping rods and paint if necessary with Krylon ORB spray paint. The temporary shipping rods are bolted at the bottom of the jamb
- Cut threshold to length and slide in under the door stop. Note: Caulk under and at the ends of the threshold. Remove the adjustable sill of the threshold to secure the threshold to the floor.
- Install the q-lon weather stripping into the kerf of the jamb and astragal.
- Bore a ½” hole for the top and bottom for flush bolts. Make sure not to bore too large of a hole or the doors may rattle. A graduated drill bit works best for this step.
- Window sash WS (if not installed)
Apply the self-adhesive silicone teardrop weather stripping to the window sashes. Remove the tape and set the gasket (fat side toward the outside edge) mitering the corners. Be sure not to stretch the gasket or it will shrink. More gasket material can be obtained at any hardware store.
- Install the window sashes into the female pivot hinges
- 13. Install your locksets as per manufacturer’s specs. Remove any excess bondo in all of the mortised holes and holes for hardware. Tap the holes for the strike plates, as the iron will tend to strip the threads of the soft brass screws. Use 1 x 2 ¾” fixed or adjustable strike plate.
Hardware: Mortise Lockset (drill holes using template provided)
Double Bore is 5 ½” C-C, Use 2 ¾” strike plate (purchase at HD or Lowes)
Our Elite iron doors are 2” thick so you will need to request an extension kit with your hardware choice for 2” doors.
- Wash the door with a very mild soap and water solution (e.g. baby shampoo). Only use Windex or other cleaners on the glass. Touch up the door where needed with the touch up paint provided.
Other Considerations for Replacing an Existing Door:
Because our doors are installed using lag bolts through the jamb rather than tabs you can usually leave the interior casing intact and pull the existing door away from the casing to the outside. Remember to cut the paint or caulk with a knife around the interior of the casing so as not to damage it.
We normally recommend replacing the brick molding with PVC brick mold. If you have arched brick molding on the top of the door, remove it carefully, as it can often be salvaged, cleaned, painted using Krylon oil rub bronze spray paint to match the door. For matching brick molding paint with the base black paint (Krylon flat or semi flat works well) and let dry. Using gin cotton and medium reducer mixture apply faux to match the door using a gin cotton swab and medium reducer mixture described in our finishing instructions.
Install the brick mold and caulk the perimeter. (Use painters tape to protect the finish of your door before caulking)